Thursday, October 22, 2015

Missouri, Here I Come...Again...The Northern Route



Back in February, I talked about my impending retirement. My retirement date was set for July while I was in Missouri but I was asked to stay longer and before I left to return to California in July, I had agreed to stay until September. As September approached, I was asked if I wanted to stay longer. I hesitated…my staff is ready to take over and I certainly don’t want to stand in the way of any promotions. I would only stay if my managers below me felt, strongly, that they would benefit by me staying for a while longer. So I sat down with them and asked for their honest opinion. I was surprised to hear that they felt they would benefit from me staying. I told my boss I would agree to stay until mid-March, the 1 year anniversary of my last pay raise, as that would benefit me in retirement, but not any longer and please don’t ask again. I also said I would need October and November off. They quickly agreed. One time, my boss asked if I wanted to stay longer….I just walked out of his office.

Dirk and I had made plans for my return to Missouri by driving the northern route and seeing areas neither of us had been in. One of our main goals was to see Mount Rushmore. A good friend had me all freaked out over driving in the north at this time of year. He didn’t like the idea because there can be early blizzards and he knows I am ill prepared to handle inclement weather. The more he talked about it, the more nervous I became. Dirk told me if I was that worried, we could always take the southern route and do the northern another time. But I started thinking…could it get that bad at the beginning of October? I checked the weather and yes, it can snow, but with it being an El Nino year, they weren’t expecting an early snow. So we went with the thought that we would watch the weather reports and turn south if needed.

I was anxious to start my vacation. I really miss writing this blog. Funny, it wasn’t something I had even considered until Dirk mentioned that he thought I would enjoy it. My main goal was just to get out and see things rather than sit around the house.

Work has been hectic and like my spring trip, I had to work up until the last moment so I was pretty stressed trying to get things wrapped up before my vacation time. Dirk arrived on September 30th and I was nervous as I drove to the airport to pick him up. Some of the pictures I will be sharing, and I guess I should have made this clear during my trip back to California, will be Dirk’s. 

When my son, Daniel, heard that Dirk was coming back out to California, he asked if they could go beer tasting and David quickly joined in. Although I don’t drink beer, they all invited me to go but I didn’t let that fool me….*points at self*…designated driver!


On October 1st, we all drove down to Petaluma to visit the Lagunitas Brewery. Daniel had been here before and when the server came up, he immediately asked for a “around the world”. I found out quickly that is a sample of almost all the beers they make. Missing is about 7 others, which the guys ordered before long. 

After a bite to eat and some heavy discussion on what’s the best Lagunitas beer, all the samples were gone and we move on to the Petaluma Hills Brewing Company, just across the street. Again, the boys share a “flight” of their beers declaring the hoppier beers their least favorite. This place has a dart board and these girls we met at Lagunitas and followed over challenged the guys to a guys vs. girls game. The guys easily won.

And because enough beer hadn’t been experienced, I took Dirk to Dragas Brewing Company in Rocklin the next day. Here he was drinking alone although I have tried every beer he and the boys have had the last couple of days. Beer has one really insurmountable problem for me….it tastes like beer…yuck. I do have to say that if I was forced to drink a beer, it would have to be a darker one.

Our real trip started the next day. I again used RoadTrippers because I had such a good time using the app during my spring trip. Again, I didn’t pick any place more than 5 miles off my route. Well, except for Mt. Rushmore which is the same thing I did with the Grand Canyon. Some places are just worth it. 

Day 1….

403 miles from Roseville, California to Elko, Nevada

Dirk and I made it about 2 miles before we made our first stop. We needed to make sure that Dirk got at least one trip in to In N’ Out Burgers before leaving California.

As before, several of my stops along the way will be covered in separate blogs but I will note when that happens.

How do we pass the time? Like our trip back out west in July, we listened to the Audiobook: The Lincoln Lawyer (2nd in the series). Besides the audiobook, Dirk is a master at sending out SnapChats or FaceBook entries showing the countryside, making offhand comments, or more funny, lip syncing. I’ve tried to include a few of those in this entry. Someone once told him that he can’t SnapChat and drive. I responded that he SnapChats, I drive and our biggest danger is me laughing us off the road.

The Sierra Nevada Mountains are within ½ hour of the house so it wasn’t long before we were going up in elevation and trying to keep the pressure in our ears equalized by swallowing, yawning, holding our noses and blowing, etc. Ever wonder what happens when we do this? That little clicking or popping sound is a small air bubble moving into your inner ear and “equalizing” the pressure. When we change altitude, the air bubbles moving to our middle ears cannot compensate for the rapid change in altitude and the ear drum starts getting stretched causing the hearing loss and uncomfortableness. 

I’ve always been curious about the flumes that you can see from I-80. I know some look real old and I can see they are often still filled with water, but where did they come from? I have found they were originally built by miners who needed the water to use in mining for gold. Some have been modernized in order to supply water to several communities down the hill. As one person put it, they “leak spectacularly” in the winter, something California desperately needs right now.

Going over the Sierra Nevada mountain range is such a beautiful drive and we pulled over above Donner Lake. Dirk asked why the name Donner sounded familiar. Its’s always strange when someone isn’t familiar with California history but why would he be? So I said, “Donner Party got stuck in the snow over winter and ate each other”. Oh yeah, he remembered after that.

The weather has been really warm but at Dirk’s warning, I have brought some of my warmest clothes. Funny about California and the cold. Our answer to warm clothes is to put long sleeves on the same clothes we wear during the summer, so you’ll have thin material, but with long sleeves. But I’ll tell you what, when we got out of the car above Donner Lake, the wind took my breath away….brrrr! What did I get myself into?

One of the places I had on my itinerary from RoadTrippers had been Lovelock, Nevada but then I felt silly enough that I removed it. In the end, we did make a short stop there. There are several ideas of how the custom started but I like this one...ASerbian woman who died of a broken heart when her lover went away to fight in WWI and fell in love with another woan. It was said that lovers would go to the bridge where the two used to meet and attach a lock on the bridge to "lock their love" for all eternity. In the 2000's, the practice spread worldwide, but Lovelock, Nevada is one place where people are encouraged to come. Their motto is "lock your love in Lovelock". Catchy, huh?

The locks are placed on several different types of public places with bridges being a favorite. Many municipalities are trying to discourage people from doing this saying the weight of the locks harms structures. In Paris, the collapse of a bridges parapet is blamed on the weight of these locks. But it is a cute idea and one that is embraced by people everywhere.


"Lovers Lock   Welcome to Lovelock, where friends, family and lovers come to forever lock their love. In 2006, Lovelock adopted the ancient Chinese custom of symbolically locking one's love on a never-ending chain. It is said that love will endure as long as the lock remains on the chain."


No one knows how or when the custom begam, but the lock-laden chains common in the Yellow Mountains and at the Great Wall of China have begun to sappear elsewhere in the world. Thousands of simple metal locks adorn chains and fences, placed with care by people wishing to symbolize their enduring love."

"Fasten a lock on the chain and throw away the key, thus uniting your love for eternity."

Out on the flatlands of Nevada, you can see very far in the distance. We could see a storm and every change in the road moved us closer and more in line with the storm. I couldn’t tell if I was seeing virga or whether we were driving into a rainstorm. Then the rain hit but thankfully, the sky looked worse than it actually was.

Day 2…

413 miles from Elko, Nevada to Rock Springs, Wyoming

I had wanted to drive by “Wendover Will” but when I told Dirk about him, the name was changed to “Bendover Bill”, leading to lots of jokes in the car and on FaceBook.

The plaque under Wendover Will states…
“Wendover Will Reclaims Skyline Once Again. Wendover will has been greeting travelers to Wendover since 1952. His name comes from the founder of the State Line Hotel & Casino, Mr. William “Bill” Smith, who started the State Line Service, a cobble stone service station, on the Utah/Nevada border in 1926. Prior to Wendover Will arriving, visitors were greeted by a shimmering light atop a tall pole that provided a signal of sorts to weary travelers crossing the Great Basin Desert that they were within reach of this small but important oasis on Highway 40 called Wendover. With gaming legalized in the State of Nevada in 1931, State Line Service grew into the State Line Hotel & Casino, a company which until its sale in 2002 to the Wendover Nugget Hotel & Casino, was on record as the single longest held gaming license in Nevada. As this growth took place, in 1952 after 26 years that light atop the pole was retired making way for what has become a community and state icon, Wendover Will.”

“Wendover Will was constructed and erected by Young Electric Sign Company out of Salt Lake City, Utah, who has been providing electric and other sign services since 1920. At the time Wendover Will was created, his smaller twin, “Vegas Vic” was also completed, who today stands adjacent to Las Vegas’ famous Fremont Street. Wendover Will made the Guinness Book of World Records as the “world’s largest mechanical cowboy”. At the time he stood 63 feet tall, had 1,184 lineal feet of neon tubing with his two large waving arms powered by a single ¾ horsepower motor, his eyes winking and cigarette flicking. The original pedestal of Wendover Will proclaimed proudly “This is the Place Where the West Begins”.

“Wendover Will through time proved to become not only an icon of the State Line Hotel & Casino, but as well became an icon of the community itself. When West Wendover, Nevada, was incorporated in 1991, Wendover Will took a prominent position in the creation of the City Seal which proclaims proudly “Come Grow with Us”, a true reflection of the original light atop a pole and later the waving arms of a towering mechanical cowboy, welcoming all to this desert oasis.” 

“Wendover Will was given to the City of West Wendover by Wendover Nugget Hotel & Casino in 2004 and now he once again stands tall representing to all, the heritage of our community as “this is the place where the west begins”.

“This monument is hereby dedicated in loving memory to two important and founding members of our community, William “Bill” and Anna Smith.”

I thought wow, that has to be one of the longest dedications I’ve ever run across until I read a couple across the street…Across the street stood a couple of monuments to the “Victory Highway” of which you can read about in a separate blog. It didn’t start out that way but once I started in on it and saw how significant it was to the area, I decided it deserved its own blog.

From Wendover Will we moved on to the historic Wendover Airfield, which must be its own blog…this is the airfield that trained the crew of the Enola Gay prior to their bombing mission to Japan.
Our next place on the itinerary was the Bonneville Salt Flats. Honestly, we almost didn’t go. I had already done some research and knew nothing was going on at the speedway but I am so glad we did. The place was amazing, and yes…another blog.

The day was coming to an end as we approached the next thing on our itinerary…Fort Bridger Historic Site. When we pulled into the area, it had already closed to car traffic. The side gate for pedestrians was still open so we wandered around as much as we could in the dark.
Because we didn’t really get to look at the place, I didn’t think I could do it justice with a blog, but wanted to include a few pictures. The place was originally a fur trading outpost established by Jim Bridger. It became a vital resupply place for emigrants traveling on the Oregon / California / Mormon trails. In 1858, the U.S. Army established a military post here after retreating Mormon’s had burned the original fort. The fort was a major stopping point during the Pony Express’ short-lived existence. The building of the Union Pacific Railroad made the fort a lot less isolated and ended up being the reason Fort Bridger and other forts in the west were closed by the end of the century.
“Fort Bridger established 1858 as a military post, also Pony Express station and on the old Oregon Trail”

Day 3…

329 miles from Rock Springs, Wyoming to Lusk, Wyoming

I have to say, apologizing to the people in the mid-west, as much as people complain about the flatness and the “sameness” of the southwest, I found most of the land in Wyoming and Nebraska to be exceedingly boring.

Now that I’ve been doing this blog for a while, I am seeing the connection in historic sites, such as the beginning of the Pony Express in St. Joseph, Missouri and the end of the route in Old Sacramento.

But I also see connections in other things. For example, our stop at the Continental Divide in New Mexico and then seeing signs declaring the same in Wyoming. I kept an eye out for a marker but never found one. While trying to find something online, I found that we were going through an area called the Great Divide Basin.

Remember the continental divide is the point where water flows either to the Pacific or Atlantic. Well, the Great Divide Basin is an area where none of the water flows, directly or indirectly, to either ocean. It was a terrible obstacle for the immigrants traveling west. Interesting how things can connect in one way or another.

We stopped at the Wyoming Frontier Prison. I knew that it had closed down sometime in September but wanted to run by it. Glad that we did and I’ll talk a little about it in another blog.

The landscape between the two prisons included all this cross fencing; seeming to be randomly placed. It took us most of the day to figure out that these are placed there to stop some of the snowfall from the Interstate and the spacing of these also cuts down the wind blowing across the Interstate.

You might not be able to tell from this picture, but we passed by this plant…no idea what it was for but both Dirk and I immediately thought “steampunk”. Definition: a genre of science fiction that typically features steam-powered machinery rather than advanced technology. Yes, we are a bit on the nerdy side.

I don’t think I covered this before, but I’d really like someone to develop a “what’s that” application for my phone. I can’t count how many times I’ve said to Dana or to Dirk…hey, what’s that? And in case you’re wondering…you can’t Google “what’s that” because you’ll get the definition of “that”. Dirk found you can ask “what’s around me” and try to figure out what you’re looking at. But I want my “what’s that” app!

Our next stop and my next blog will be the Wyoming Territorial Frontier Prison.

Traveling down the highway I saw a sign for the “Oregon Trail Ruts” and decided I want to see this. Before we got to it, another marker came up which also deals with the Oregon Trail. I believe the markers are self-explanatory.

“The Oregon Trail  1841  Cold Springs Camping Ground. Rifle pits on brow of hill 500 feet north”
“Rifle Pit Hill Rock quarries, visible from several points near this location, were used beginning in 1849 to supply stone and lime for construction projects at Fort Laramie, about 15-miles east. Workers in the quarries were protected by soldiers stationed in fortified rifle pits dug into the crest of the low hill to the northeast. Five such rifle pits, eighteen to twenty four inches deep, form a well arranged defense perimeter.”

“The rifle pits also overlook the Cold Spring campground, a popular camping and watering place on the Oregon – California Trail (1841 – 1868). Another major campground, known as Warm Spring is located on the far side of the ridge to the south. Such springs were vital to emigrants traveling west. The North Platte River, running high and muddy with Rocky Mountain snow melt, was not fit to drink for man or east during the time of the year the annual emigration passed this way. A still visible branch of the Oregon Trail is located about 500 feet north of Cold Spring.”

“Other major emigrant trail landmarks in the immediate area include the Oregon Trail Ruts National Historic Site, Register Cliff State Historic Site and a scattering of marked pioneer graves. The Oregon Trail Ruts, where wagon wheel tracks are worn up to five feet deep in a soft sandstone ridge, are the signature trail ruts of the entire Oregon – California – Mormon Trail system. At Register Cliff, passing pioneers carved their signatures, hometown names and the date of their passage into the face of a mile-long bluff beside the North Platte River. Both places present strong visual evidence of the 500,000 westering pioneers who passed this way on their epic journey to Columbia River farmlands, California gold fields and the religious freedom of the Great Salt Lake valley. Access to all sites is well marked in the town of Guernsey.”

Driving further out of our route than I had intended, we finally we arrived at the Oregon Trail Ruts at nightfall but this time I wanted to see it so we hurriedly climbed to the top of the monument. I’ll detail this in another blog.

Getting ready to view this site, Dirk put on his new sweatshirt…over the seatbelt and for some reason, this was really funny to me, and I burst into giggles.

Day 4…

283 miles from Lusk, Wyoming to Alliance, Nebraska

We passed this old place and both of us realized that it was a place begging to be photographed so I turned around and went back. Glad I did. I love the one Dirk took.
Not too many miles later we got our first glimpse of the Crazy Horse Memorial…yes, yes…another blog.

Next was our drive to Mt. Rushmore and what we both felt would be the highlight of our trip. On the drive there, we passed some amazing rock formations and stopped to take pictures. Dirk was facing a different direction and said something and I was like…”what are you looking at?” He pointed, I looked in the direction he was pointing and then back to him. His response? “I’m sorry if you can’t see the majesty in this view.” I looked there again…and back at him…and got back in the car. I like my rocks better.

Mt. Rushmore will be covered in another blog but it is an amazing place to be.
Day 5…

397 miles from Alliance, Nebraska to Lincoln, Nebraska

Our first stop was in Alliance and I picked it because I knew Dirk would find it amusing…and he did. I’ll be writing about Carhenge a little later.

This would be a great time to watch one of Dirk's Roadside Revelations…

After we visited Carhenge, I felt a big push to get through as much of Nebraska as we could. We had wanted to spend a couple of days in Kansas City and Dirk’s vacation was coming to an end. We really should have left California a day earlier. On the other hand, there really wasn’t much I wanted to see in Nebraska any way.

One of the problems being the driver for an entire trip is getting tired. Nebraska…flat…never changing…the mind wanders….and all of a sudden I hear my tires hitting the ruts on the right hand side of the road…my eyes open and I jerk the car back into the lane. It takes a while for your heart to stop pounding when you realized that you had fallen asleep. It wasn’t very much longer before we decided to stop and I slept like the dead that night.

Day 6…

205 miles from Lincoln, Nebraska to Kansas City, Missouri

Day 6 found us almost in Missouri and I was feeling pushed to get to Kansas City, but before then we had several stops that I had been anticipating.

The first being the Mayhew Cabin, which I will write about later. Our next stop was supposed to be the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center just across the Missouri River. Using our GPS, we made all the right turns and then the bridge over the river was in front of us….closed and partly dismantled. We tried to find another way over the river and finally gave up and put our next stop in the GPS knowing it would have to take us over the river at some point. But it was too far from where we needed to be so we decided to skip it.
Finally…Missouri. Our first stop was what I thought would be a Pony Express stop. Actually the true beginning of the Pony Express but our GPS brought us to the Patee House. It was amazing the amount of stuff inside but we’ll get to that later.

One of the places I was most looking forward to, and I’m not sure why, was the Glore Psychiatric Museum…again, its own blog and probably the one I am going to be most fascinated with researching.

Day 7…

213 miles from Kansas City, Missouri to Hollister, Missouri

We got up at our usual crack of dawn time…yeah, right. It’s funny but when we are reserving hotels, we always make a big deal out of finding ones that serve some sort of breakfast although we miss the times set for breakfast much more often than hitting them.

When we got up, there was an invoice from the hotel under the door and figured out we reserved for 1 night instead of 2 so we’d have to find another place to stay for the night if we wanted to stay in the area another day. Later in the day, we decided to head home.

When we first started planning for this trip Dirk has been excited to take me to a restaurant called Fritz’s located in the Crown Center. He explained that his kids loved to come here and he wanted me to see it.

To say this is a place that kids like to come would be an understatement. I believe we may have been the only table with no kids and it’s loud and busy. But the food is good and it’s a fun place. You order your food by telephone and it’s delivered by this elaborate choo-choo train system that runs through the restaurant.

The last stop on our itinerary was the American Jazz Museum and this is a definite blog! So, I am back in Missouri and when I return to California I will either have my son David for company or it will be my first, of what I hope is many, solo trips back and forth across the U.S.

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