The Borax Visitor's Center - Boron, California

DATE:  July 11, 2015

SITE:  Borax Visitor Center

LOCATION:  Suckow Rd., Boron, Kern Co., California

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS: 

I have absolutely no idea why I really wanted to come to a borax mine. I think I was curious to see a mine totally devoted to what I thought was the only use of borax...laundry detergent. Yet, I knew I had to be wrong too. I was pretty sure borax wasn't used in all laundry soap so why pull so much of it out of the earth?

The mine is quite a bit off the freeway. I’m glad that I had read some of the TripAdvisor reviews because I knew a head of time that to get to the visitors center, you leave the paved road. What I didn’t realize was the hill…unpaved…that you would have to go up. The visitors center is quite a bit above the mine.  

 

When you enter the facility, you have a series of signs directing you to the visitor center. There are other signs talking about safety and how long since an accident, but the funniest were the speed limit signs. They slowed us down with each sign and then we hit the 37 1/2 MPH sign? Huh? How do you do that?

The staff working the visitors center are all volunteers and boy are they enthusiastic about this place. Both of the gentlemen working there had retired from various positions in the mine.  One glommed on to us and I wasn’t sure if we weren’t going to have a personal guide the whole time.

I was set straight...Borax is the brand and the mineral is called borates. The mineral is used for cosmetics, enamel glazes, fire retardant, anti-fungal, in the manufacture of fiberglass, shields against radioactivity, a non-stick surface texture for cooking, as poison in ant and roach bait and lots of other things.

Borax, the brand, in one form or another, has been in continuous business in California for 144 years. This area is known for the largest deposit of borates in the world and is one of two deposits of what is considered "world class" borate.

It would be way too easy to get all science-y in this blog. Part of what I enjoy after visiting someplace is the research I do to find out more about it and to share it. Am I really sharing it with anyone? I believe so but this really is more about a personal quest for travel and learning and so far, I am achieving both.

The word "borax" comes from the Arabic būraq (بورق), meaning "white". It was first discovered in dry lake beds in Tibet and it wasn’t until it was discovered in California and Nevada that large enough quantities could be mined at a cheaper cost.

Frances Marion Smith, aka “Borax Smith, discovered borates in a plentiful supply in the Nevada desert in 1872 and then in Death Valley in 1881. The use of 40 mules mule train to haul borates out was started in 1883.  

Smith was a very smart business man and promoted the idea of the mule train. In fact, research has shown that the team was a mixture of horses and mules. But that didn’t stop Smith from having his mule train go down Broadway in New York or through the streets in San Francisco or even at the World’s Fair, passing out sample boxes of his products. There was even a TV show, “Death Valley Days”, that the hosts regularly advertised two of Borax’s products…Borateem  (laundry soap) and Boraxo (hand cleaner)

The current mine that Dirk and I visited is called Rio Tinto and it opened as an underground mine in 1927 but became an “open pit” mine in the 50's. The term "open pit" is used often on their website and at the Center. I don’t know but that just doesn’t sound all that great but they do point out how environmentally conscious they are and what they have done to be so.

Our guide explained that there is still one very long underground mine left...I think he said over 2 miles long. I kept thinking, as we were sweating in the baking sun, that it must be awfully cool down there.

Looking down on the pit, you can see vehicles coming up taking borates to different processing areas. It wasn't until Dirk and I stood next to, and Dirk inside of, one of the tires that you realize just how huge this place really is.

London Bridge - Lake Havasu City, Arizona

DATE:  July 10, 2015

HISTORICAL SITE:  London Bridge

LOCATION:  1550 London Bridge Rd., Lake Havasu City, Mohave Co., Arizona

"London Bridge   Opened by The Right Honorable The Lord Mayor of London Alderman Sir Peter Studd G.B.E., M.A.D.Sc.   in the presence of The Honorable Jack Williams Govenor of Arizona   October 10, 1981

Robert P. McCullough Sr.   Founder   Lake Havasu City

C.V. Wood Jr.  Master Planner   Lake Havasu City"

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS: 

Dirk and I got into Lake Havasu City about mid-day and it's freaking hot. Certainly not as hot as when Dana and Ron visited a couple of weeks ago where it was still over 100 at 9:00pm, but definitely hot enough.

Despite the fact that I was born and raised in Los Angeles, I have never been to Lake Havasu. I wanted to put my feet in the lake so I could say I was there. I think we were out of the car maybe 15 minutes when I wanted back in the air conditioning.

 

I've wanted to see London Bridge for a long time but just never got around to it. This was not our most direct route from Mesa but if not now...when?

So…How did the London Bridge, the same one that spanned the Thames, get to...of all places...Arizona?

The bridge that went over the River Thames was actually several bridges. It is said there has been a London Bridge for nearly 2,000 years. Romans, Danes, Saxons, Vikings, invaders and natives alike had a hand in the building and tearing down of several of the earlier bridges.

The first stone bridge was built circa 1200. Disaster struck in 1212 when a group of people were stuck on the bridge with fires on either side. Many died by fire.

It was customary between 1305 and 1660 to display the heads of traitors on spikes at the southern gateway. The head of William Wallace (as Mel Gibson said “Aye, fight and you may die. Run, and you'll live... at least a while. And dying in your beds, many years from now, would you be willin' to trade ALL the days, from this day to that, for one chance, just one chance, to come back here and tell our enemies that they may take our lives, but they'll never take... OUR FREEDOM!”)  was the first such “traitor” to be displayed.

In 1623, another fire struck the bridge and burned 43 houses nearby. The bridge was falling apart; the people were moving away and something had to be done.

In 1657, the bridge was partially rebuilt and remained that way until 1831. A new bridge was built with granite and had 5 high arches.

 

The new bridge was immediately busy and then a new kind of traveler came…the commuter. Traffic increased and the bridge was widened in 1903.

By 1924, the bridge was sinking on one side. It had been designed for horse drawn carriages, not the weight of an ever increasing number of automobiles.

In 1962, it was found that London Bridge WAS indeed falling down. 

In 1968, the city of London put the bridge up for sale and Robert McCulloch, found of Lake Havasu City bought it for $2.4 million.

To the tune of another $7 million, the bridge was numbered, taken apart and shipped to the U.S.

In 1968, the then mayor of London visited Arizona and placed the corner stone.

It was completed in 1971 but not over water…the land below was dredged out and flooded. Today, it is one of the biggest draws to the area.

As Dirk told me…”we kicked their asses and then took their bridge”

The Petrified Forest & Painted Desert - Apache & Navajo Co., Arizona

DATE:  July 6, 2015

HISTORICAL SITE:  Petrified Forest National Park

LOCATION:  Apache & Navajo Co., Arizona

MARKER #:  75000217 & 76000185 & 87001421 & 05000284

DEDICATED:  October 10, 1975 & July 12, 1976 & May 28, 1987 & April 15, 2005

"This property has been listed in the National Register of Historic Places by the United States Department of the Interior   1976   Newspaper Rock Petroglyphs Archaeological District"

"Painted Desert Inn has been designated a National Historic Landmark   This site possesses National significance in commemorating the history of the United States of America   1987   National Park Service   United States Department of the Interior"

"This property has been listed in the National Register of Historic Places by the United States Department of the Interior   2005   Painted Desert Community Complex Historic District"

MARKER PLACED BY:  National Park Service, United States Department of the Interior

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS: 

I was surprised to find out that although Dirk was born and raised in Arizona, he has never visited the Petrified Forest or Painted Desert. I remember my parents taking us as little girls and for some reason that has stuck with me and is the driving force behind my desire to see this area again.

While not as breathtaking as the Grand Canyon, you can see similarities and this place can still stop you in your tracks with its beauty.

At one point, Dirk and I were just standing and looking. We'd said all the oooh's and ahhh's and were quiet. I looked over at Dirk and he had this look on his face I have seen before and am in awe of. I'm not sure how to describe it other than to say it is joy and the quietness of a soul...if that makes sense. He then looked at me and said "God did good".

While it's officially the Petrified Forest National Park, the northern end extends into the Painted Desert and is known for fossilized trees from the late Triassic period, about 225 million years ago.

In the late 1800's, concern grew over the number of tourists visiting and removing artifacts. Arizona asked the U.S. government to create a Petrified Forest National Park.

Like the Grand Canyon, the journey to national park wasn't easy and like the Grand Canyon, Roosevelt had to use the Antiquities Act of 1906 to create the Petrified Forest National Monument in 1932 and finally it became a National Park in 1962. Several successive presidents have signed legislation to acquire additional land where the size is currently 218,533 acres.

As part of the super continent of Pangaea, this area was near the equator and had a sub-tropical climate.

Paleontologists have been working in the park since the early 20th century, finding Triassic plants, but also giant crocodile like reptiles called phytosaurs, large salamander like amphibians called Buettneria and early dinosaurs.

It is the same sediments that buried the tree's so they could fossilize, that has caused the Painted Desert is be so colorful and that sediment is estimated to be up to 800 feet deep.

There have been nine species of fossil trees identified here...all extinct. Driving through the park, you can see remnants of the tree's all over the place, some denser than others.

The sediment is also easily weathered giving the landscape its cliffs, gullies and rounded hills.

The earliest humans arrived at least 8,000 years ago. Mostly nomadic until about 2,000 years ago when humans built pueblos and were growing corn here.

As the climate changed, people moved out but more than 600 sites have been found to be archaeologically significant, including the petroglyphs site called Newspaper Rock.

The Hopi nation call it "Tutuveni" and the petroglyphs show the history of the Hopi Indian tribe carved into stone. The area contains about 5,000 petroglyphs estimated to be between 650 and 2,000 years old.

In 2008, Newspaper Rock was included on the Worlds Monument Watch List of endangered cultural sites. Sadly, along with the ancient petroglyphs is the graffiti of today. $100,000.00 later, the site is surrounded by a chain link fence and monitored by hidden cameras.

 
Until the 16th century, the only inhabitants were indigenous people. Then the Spaniards discovered this area while exploring Mexico and the southwest.

The first U.S. survey was in 1853, made by American explorers looking for good east to west routes. Soon a wagon trail was "built"...is that the right word? What do you call it..."carved" a wagon trail?

Homesteaders settled in the area and their cattle grazed within the borders of the park until the mid-20th century. Next came the railroad and finally, constant car traffic on Route 66 and now Interstate 40.

There are 3 sites designated as historical, the main complex, the petroglyphs and finally...the Painted Desert Inn.

Back in the 1920's, Herbert Lore built a tourist shop, lunch counter and trading post on the Kachina rim. In 1932, the U.S. government proclaimed the Painted Desert a national monument. Lore negotiated $59,400.00 out of the U.S. government for his land and building. $60k in 1932? Not bad at all.

The original inn was built using the petrified wood from the park and was called Stone Tree House. Using the parks natural resources was a bit frowned upon so they rebuilt the inn; that being completed by the Conservation Corps in 1937.

Ok, this is strange to me but they didn't want to use the parks resources that were ALREADY being used so they tear it down and use other natural resources. Maybe less scarce but I bet that petrified wood was going to last forever.

Hopi artist Fred Kabotie was hired to paint scenes of everyday Hopi life and ceremonies on the walls of the Inn. 

There was a bit more remodeling right after the war and it was used as a railway hotel from 1947 to 1963 and finally destruction was discussed in the mid-70's.

Thankfully, cooler heads prevailed and after major renovations, the inn reopened in 2006 as a museum. You walk through the building and can appreciate the craftsmanship and the painting, but then you look up and there is a beautiful stained glass ceiling.

I'm really glad we got the opportunity to see one of the U.S.'s beautiful National Park.